How I learned to create boundaries with my dogs (without being a terrible owner at the same time)....

Here’s what I did that worked extremely well, and what you can try with your own dog. 

Let them earn freedom.

That’s it - it’s that simple. But I’m sure it can be confusing so I’ll explain.

Most dog owners that I’ve worked with, start the process the wrong way.

They give freedom and then try to set the boundary AFTER. As an example, if you don’t want your dog to grab food quickly and eat anything around, the best way to start this isn’t to wait until the habit has already been approved as ok.

What many dog owners will do is 1) allow a bad behavior to go unchecked until 2) it becomes abrasive and no longer “cute”, because the dog is bigger or acting out more and then 3) they get frustrated and don’t enjoy the experience of owning a dog. 

(Most of my clients are stuck around step 2 or 3)

What the correct version of this path looks like is this:

1) Set a boundary very early, before any behavior is developed.

2) Reward your dog heavily for honoring that boundary.

3) Start to give more freedom to them within the boundary and reward again.

Most people who get frustrated with their dogs don’t actually have a bad dog.

It’s rare that I’ll find someone who has a “bad dog” - the dog has just learned bad habits.

The secret to having a dog that works well with you, your family, and other dogs, is setting the right habits early and then giving freedom.

The expectation is also really high for your dog. You expect too much out of them too soon. This will create frustration. 

Instead also have times where your dog can be a dog.

Don’t constrict your dog too much, or they won’t be able to play in the world and learn what it means to be confident and active.

But don’t give freedom without boundaries first, or you’ll have a dog that just acts without realizing what is helpful or unhelpful in having a safe, healthy, positive environment.

This week, work on those boundaries!

Talk soon.

Donald “Creating Boundaries” Hutcherson

How to get your dog to stop pulling on the leash easily

While exercise is important in tiring your dog out, you can still have an out of control dog.

You can also have a dog who hasn’t exercise, but sill doesn’t pull you across the yard when you first let them out the door.

Why?

Ill explain in this article. Ill explain why even when you ran 5 milles with your dog, they still pull on the leash.

Ill also explain how to teach them how to walk politely on a leash.

The walk is the most important part of your day with your dog.

You are probably at work all day and want a relaxed walk.

The only issue is that your dog has been sleeping when you get home and is now filled with so much energy.

You open your crate door and your dog zooms out.

Next, your dog runs around in circles while you struggle to put their leash on.

Then you almost fall because your dog is racing outside.

Your arm is in pain as you wrap the leash around your hand to get a better grip and hopefully more control.

But the only thing this does is cut off the circulation to your hand.

You dog is sniffing the ground and marking every patch of grass or fire hydrant they see.

Your shoulder is in pain and you just want the walk to be over.

So you start going for shorter and shorter walks until you no longer go outside.

Now I know I’m being dramatic for some people, but I have actually seen cases like this.

It doesn’t matter if your situation is similar to the above or its not as bad.
Everybody wants a dog that can walk on the leash properly.

If this is you click the button below

Some things dog owners do wrong

Now there are 4 primary ones and also many others, but lets talk about the primary ones.

1. Allowing their dog to ignore them

   This is not done on purpose. But most dog owners have not taught their dog to pay attention to them. Their dog is checking out the other dogs, the grass, the kids playing in the schoolyard. They are checking out everything and everybody except for you.

2. Using a harness

   A harness is used for pulling. In protection we use it to build drive. Its also used by sled dogs to do what………. PULL!!!!

3. Using a flat buckle collar

   Usually your dog will pull and keep pulling even when they are choking themselves. Most dog owner think these collars are safe, but they can actually lead to a dog getting choked out. Not a pleasant site.

4. Get their dog excited before the walk

   If you start squeaking toys and saying things like “ Are you ready to go outside” in an excited tone, you dog is more likely to pull. Calm it down.

   NO Talking!

   NO Eye contact!

   NO Touching!

Tools to use

Prong collar

I Know these look barbaric and torturous, but they are not. They are the safest to not choke your dog out while also being gentle in guiding your dog

How to get your dog to stop pulling on the leash

1. First thing you must do is realize that the walk starts before you leave your house.

You must become relevant in your house with your dog before you go outside.

If your dog can’t pay attention to you in the house then outside they will never listen with all of the distractions. Distractions like the leaves blowing, a bird chirping, a skateboarder is skating by, or even another dog 100 feet away can make walking unpleasant.

Become the “go to” person for all of your dog’s decisions. You must become strict on this at first. Once your dog understands the rules then you can ease up. Use calm energy. Less talking and more showing your dog where you want them to go.

“Calmness is key”

2.Next you should fit you dog with a prong collar.

If you have a big dog you will use the 3.0 millimeters. Medium sized dog you will most likely use the 2.25 millimeters.

You can also get extra links in case your dog’s neck is wider.
Now we get to doing the walk.

3.You should do what is known as a structured walk.

This walk is pure focus for your dog.

I use the 80/20 rule for this. This means that 80% of the time your dog is focused by your side, head up, and looking straight ahead.

There is no sniffing until we stop and allow the dog to go. This is that 20%.

Otherwise there is no pulling ahead.

Remember above we talked about being relevant. Well part of that is putting some rules in place. Being responsible for choices the dog makes.

4.The final thing you must do is teach your dog leash pressure.

Your dog has to know how to give in to the leash.

Most dogs pull backwards when you try to pull them forward.

This is a natural reaction for your dog called an oppositional reflex. You have to teach your dog that it is better to give in to the leash. This is how it is possible to walk your dog with just two fingers.

Try this out and let me know how you did.

Do the foundational work then tackle these 4 areas and you are well on your way.

Or you can click the link below

How to crate train even the most difficult dog

DId you know that most dogs actually love to be in their crate.

No SERIOUSLY… they love it!

A well balanced dog will enjoy the calmness of being in a crate.

An unbalanced, nervous dog who wasn’t introduced properly might feel trapped and start to show signs of anxiety.

As a dog trainer I see quite often how crate training can be difficult as some dogs will fight for their life not to have to go in the crate.

Other dogs will scream and whine while they are in the crate.

If you are going through any of these issues, click the link below to get some of your questions answered.

Why crate train your dog

The number one thing crate training will do is provide supervision.

Many dog owners want to leave their dog out free in the house or apartment only to come home to the garbage can tipped over, pieces of the couch bitten off, and wet spots on the floor.

What happens next?

You get so upset with your dog that you start screaming at them. You tell them how “You knew better” and “I am so annoyed with you right now”.

This is typical and could of been avoided if you crate train your dog.

Nobody wants to come home to the trash on the floor. Also you put things in the trash that are not meant to be eaten.

Maybe you put some hazardous material in the trash.

Maybe you put glue or old food in the wrong can.

Whatever you put in the trash your dog was not supposed to eat it.

Your dog can get sick, which means a trip to the vet, which means more money you spend.

What about that half eaten couch?

It was expensive and now you have to buy another one.

In the meantime it looks tacky as your guest see it when they come over.

Who wants to sit on a couch with chunks of it missing anyways?

Now the wet spots or the mountain of poop on your floor is entirely a different beast on its own.

It can ruin your floor!

You can step in it and ruin your shoes or at a minimum have to clean them and wash out the smell.

You get my point.

These things are all avoided by crate training your dog.

You will come home with the assurance knowing that your couch or wall is not eaten. Also knowing that your dog is safe because they haven’t swallowed something they were not supposed to.

Things you will need:

• leash

• collar

• crate

• treats

How to crate train( for dogs who are not anxious or had a bad experience)

1. See if your dog will go in there on their own. Don’t force your dog. Throw a treat in the crate and see what they do. If they don’t walk in, they are telling you

   “I am not ready to go in, even for a treat”

2. Leave the crate door open and allow them to explore. Once they take a step forward, praise them and give them a reward if they will take it.

3. Don’t rush. Let them explore slowly. Once they are consistently doing this with no problem start to close the door slowly and open it quickly and reward your dog.

4. Start leaving your dog in the crate for 5 seconds, then 10 seconds, then 2 seconds.

   (It is very important that you don’t increase time in a linear way. ie: 1 sec, 2 sec, 3 sec, 5 sec, 10 sec, 20 sec. Doing this is not beneficial for the dog. When you mix up the time, the dog doesn’t know what to expect and doesn’t become anxious since he cant predict the time that he will stay in the crate)

5. Leave your dog in the crate especially when you are home.

   Many people will only leave their dog in the crate when they are leaving. In the dog’s mind they are thinking

   “Every time I go in the crate you leave and I am all alone”

   I know it might not seem to make sense to put your dog in the crate when you are home since you can supervise your dog, but you need to do this.

   It doesn’t have to be long. Maybe 15 minutes. That it!

6. Put your dog in the crate overnight.

   Your dog should not be sleeping with you. They should sleep in their own bed. This is healthy separation. Where as sleeping with your dog or having them follow you around can cause separation anxiety.

Now for the difficult cases.

You can repeat the previous steps, but if your dog will not get in the crate in can be difficult to put them in it.

What you have to remember is you must get your dog in the crate or the next time will be harder. If you struggle to get your dog in the crate and you fail to get your dog in the crate they will put up a strong fight the next time.

In the dog’s mind they won the exchange and you lost.

You MUST win!

Once you win, your dog will settle down and realize the crate is not that bad.

This is so important!!!

Many dog owners don’t realize that they can’t put their dog in the crate because they kept trying and lost every time.

Tip:If you tell your dog to go in the crate, then make sure you can get them to go in the crate

The next step is to make sure your dog is calm in the crate. You want your dog to relax.

The mistake that I see is at this point you shouldn’t give your dog a treat.

A treat is given when you are introducing a puppy or a dog without anxiety to a crate.

A dog with anxiety will need you to stop them from getting so aroused. They need you to help their mind relax and food will not do that.

If you are having difficulty with this then….

You can give your dog a chewing bone, but only after they relax.

If your dog starts screaming then walk over to the crate and say NO!